RARE TREK TO MOUNT EBAL
Here we are, that time of the year when we read Devarim/Deuteronomy, the final book of the Torah or the Five Books of Moses. Moses is preparing the Israelite nation to enter into the “Promised Land.” Two chapters, Re’eh and Ki Savo, interestingly make mention of “Mount Ebal.” The Israelites are forewarned by God to promptly build an alter of stone inscribed with the words of the Torah on Mount Ebal after crossing the Jordan River. Further, we read in the Book of Joshua that Joshua does in fact build an altar on Mount Ebal just as God commanded. Today, some believe the “Altar of Joshua” has been found. Reading these biblical passages this year gave me flashbacks of my trek to Mount Ebal a year ago.
It all began when Eva sent a message to our “Covid Tours” WhatsApp group (Covid Tours, created soon after the Covid-19 Pandemic took over our lives, is made up of myself and three outstanding fellow Israeli tour guide colleagues-Eva Grunhut, Leontine Cohen Pauka and Shmuel Browns.) In her message, Eva naively asked if it was possible to visit Mount Ebal and the Alter of Joshua. At the time, our Covid Tours group had been exploring the Samarian Hills quite extensively as part of our self imposed Covid continuing education project. You see, Mount Ebal is a large mountain north of modern day Nablus (the ancient biblical city of Schem), in the heart of Samaria, but it is situated in an area that is generally off limits to Israelis. The same night Eva sent her inquiry, Shmuel incredibly received a pop up post from the Samarian Council advertising a rare two day escorted hike to Mount Ebal, proof positive that Google really is listening! The trek started in less than two days. Despite the short notice and despite the warning posted in fine print about the trip’s level of difficulty being “difficult,” Shmuel and I threw caution to the wind and decided to go for it. Eva and Leontine, perhaps wisely, opted out. After dusting off our sleeping bags and purchasing a few provisions, Shmuel and I took off for Samaria and the notorious Mount Ebal.
I should emphasize that the '“difficult” warning was not exaggerated. Over the course of 2 days, we hiked approximately 56 kilometres (34 miles). The 56 kilometres were broken down into two 12 hour days of 28 kilometres (17 miles) each, while hiking under the blazing hot, shadeless sun. We trekked relentlessly across some of the rockiest and steepest terrain I have ever navigated, and at a breakneck speed. Apparently, our guides were trying to set a new world record. When we ascended to the top of one ridge, there was immediately another ridge to conquer. We were instructed to carry 4 liters of water for each day. Unfortunately, we discovered that to be hardly enough! Oh, and did I mention the part about cracking 3 ribs after careening uncontrollably down the first steep descent?
I returned home from this trek sore and incredulous of what I had just experienced. After a hot shower, the comfort of my bed, and after all was said and done…. and the ribs healed, I was honestly able to say that the the trek to Mount Ebal was incredible and an experience I will never forget. I may even do it again, if you ask nicely:)
THIS IS MY PHOTO JOURNAL OF THE EBAL ADVENTURE
THE FIRST NIGHT:
Shmuel and I headed up to the Samarian Hills the evening before the trek. Excitedly, we left Jerusalem, taking the hour and a half drive up scenic Road 60 following the “Path of the Patriarchs.” Overnight accommodations were arranged in the dormitory of a yeshiva in Elon Moreh. The yishuv of Elon Moreh is located on Mount Kabir and believed to be the area where Abraham and Sarah first arrived in Canaan. Before settling in for the night, Shmuel and I visited the Tomb of Sheik Bid’al and watched the magnificent sunset from the peak of Mount Kabir. Fortunately the “Pizza Hut” of Elon Moreh was open for business.
FELLOW TREKKERS:
The assembly of participants in the Ebal trek was almost as captivating as the landscape itself. There were 25 of us in total, a few who dropped out and were extracted after the first descent. We had 2 guides, Yair and Yochanan, and they were assisted by 5 young women who were with us as part of their National Service (Sherut Leumi). Soldiers from the Israeli army also escorted us every step of the way in “Areas A and B”. Most of the participants were boys who seemed like they were one with the soil as they skipped like rams across the Samarian Hills. Shmuel and I thought we would be the oldest in the group, but eighty plus year old Menachem lead the pack with his staff in hand.
DAY ONE:
The first day of our trek began at the crack of dawn from Elon Moreh atop Mount Kabir. Elon Moreh is named for the place Abraham and Sara first arrived on their journey into Canaan, the Promised Land with a breathtaking view of the area. As the sun rose, we began the steep descent of 800 meters from Mount Kabir or the “Great Mountain” to the Springs of Bidan. The rest of the day was spent ascending 941 meters up Mount Ebal with a stop at the “Altar of Joshua” before reaching our campsite on the peak of Mount Ebal.
OFF WE GO INTO THE SUNRISE
COOLING OFF IN THE BIDAN SPRING
ASCENDING MOUNT EBAL
REST STOP
THE ALTER OF JOSHUA
THE PEAK OF MT. EBAL AND CAMP, AT LAST
DAY TWO:
We were up before the sun. After breakfast we began the second day above the clouds heading into the rising sun. The trek continued along a ridge high above Nablus, the biblical city of Schem. The modern day city is wedged in the valley between where we stood on Mount Ebal (the mountain of curses) and, Mount Gerezim (the mountain of blessings) on the other side of the valley. From there, we descended into the British Forest, we crossed the Samarian Valley and we made a final ascent to the ruins of a majestic and mysterious Byzantine and Crusader period monastery dedicated to the biblical events in 2 Kings 1-17. After stopping for a final dip in another spring our journey ended at Shavei Shomron.
EARLY BIRDS GET THE WORM
AND WE’RE OFF
NABLUS FROM ABOVE
2ND DAY HIKE
MYSTERIOUS MONESTARY
HOME SWEET HOME-THE END!
HERE IS AN INCREDIBLE BIRD’S EYE VIDEO OF THE ALTAR OF JOSHUA ON MOUNT EBAL COURTESY OF ZVI KOENIGSBERG